As an acne specialist, I see acne clients coming into my spa all the time. Acne can be an extremely emotional skin condition to deal with. Believe me, I understand. My own acne journey didn’t begin until I was an adult. I had always had ‘perfect’ skin and then one day woke up and felt like my face had erupted overnight. It shook my confidence and I started to hide more. I actually have very few photos from that time because my shame led me to delete them all. I regret that I did that because it not only erased those photos, but it also erased those precious memories with my friends and loved ones. It’s my goal to prevent that shame from taking over for you, so let me break down what exactly acne is and get you started on your journey to healthier skin.

What causes it?

We hear a lot about foods, skincare products, hormones, and more causing acne, but technically these are just triggers. Acne is an inherited inflammatory skin condition. It’s caused by something called Retention Hyperkeratosis. Retention Hyperkeratosis occurs when the skin’s cells shed at a much faster pace than they should. In non-acne prone skin, your skin cells shed once daily, however they will shed up to five times daily in acneic skin. The problem with this is that those cells then clog the pore, creating the perfect environment for cutibacterium (c.acnes) bacteria to proliferate and thrive.

Non-Inflamed Acne

All acne begins as a microcomedone. These are not visible to the naked eye and can take up to 90 days to come to the surface. From there, they may become a closed comedone. They are also called whiteheads, and no, they’re not the inflamed pimple you think of when you hear that term. They’re small non-inflamed lesions under the skin. When you extract them, the contents are usually thick and stringy. They may then begin to form an open comedone, or blackhead. Blackheads occur when the contents of the pore are exposed to oxygen. The oxidized contents then turn into a dark colored plug. Open and closed comedones are called non-inflamed acne.

Inflamed Acne

An inflammatory papule is a red, bumpy pimple that has not come to a head yet. They occur when the dead cells build up, create more inflammation, and begin to put pressure on the cells surrounding the pore.

The sides of the pore will rupture when enough pressure is present, allowing the contents of the pore to leak into the surrounding skin. This can spread the infection and lead to more breakouts.

When you think of a pimple, you’re likely picturing inflammatory pustules. These are lesions that have come to a head. They differ from papules because the material within the pustule contains white blood cells, which build up and create pus. When a group of pustules clump together, a cyst is formed. Cysts are somewhat soft, dome shaped lesions that extend below the surface of the skin. They can be pus-filled and can have a diameter of 5mm or more. It’s really important not to extract them or pick at them. Not only are they incredibly painful, but scarring is very common with them.

Nodules are similar to cysts in that they are dome shaped and larger than a traditional pustule, but they’re much firmer than a cyst and feel almost like a knot under the skin. These are also very painful and not easily extracted so please do not try to pop these either. Papules, pustules, cysts, and nodules are all considered inflamed acne.

You can have a combination of inflamed and non-inflamed acne, so it’s important to take a holistic approach to get clear.

How to Treat Acne

Unfortunately, it’s not one size fits all when it comes to acne treatment. Every person has different triggers. I recommend keeping a journal an logging changes in your skin and find correlations. These triggers can include using products or makeup that don’t agree with your skin, using other household products with pore clogging ingredients in them, medications, chemicals like chlorine in pools, sun exposure, birth control, using recreational drugs, eating certain foods or supplements, and hormonal imbalances. I want to make this very clear: Acne is not caused by poor hygiene. You are NOT dirty if you have acne. Drinking more water and showering more often will not clear your acne.

Here is What You Can Do

• Work with a licensed esthetician who specializes in working with acne. Put your trust in them and allow them to help you on this journey. It may be rough as it typically gets worse before it gets better, but a year from now you’ll be so glad that you did.
• Use professional grade product regimens designed for you by your esthetician.
• Notice triggers and try to minimize them if possible. I’m not a doctor. I’m not going to tell you that you have to change your diet or add in a bunch of supplements. That’s completely out of my scope of practice. I will, however, provide you with a list of potential triggers so you can see if there’s any correlation. I will also refer you to a functional medicine provider who can run blood tests and assist you with diet and supplements.
• Try to minimize your stress levels. This is much easier said than done, but I highly encourage you to try limiting screen time before bed, include stretching and light exercise into your daily routine, and find something that can help you relax. I personally like taking baths and reading to lower my stress levels.
• Including ingredients like Benzoyl Peroxide, AHAs, BHAs, beta glucan, hyaluronic acid, and CBD are a great starting point, but please hear me when I tell you: PLEASE see a licensed esthetician instead of just trying to create a routine yourself. I’ve seen this backfire so many times and make the situation even worse.

You Are Not Alone

Acne can make you feel very alone, especially if your friends aren’t struggling, too. For me, it felt embarrassing to ask for help because I didn’t want anyone to see my skin up close. I felt bad going out with my friends and being in weddings. It was debilitating at times and I felt so alone. When I finally decided to get help, my life changed for the better. After working with an esthetician and subsequently going to esthetics school, I feel so much more confident in my skin now than I did before. Yes, I still break out. Acne is NOT cured, but it is managed. But it’s all been worth it for the health of my skin. If I may give some advice, don’t wait. Seek help and support now so you don’t look back on these days with regret.

At Mantis Spa, we will never make you feel bad about your skin, because we’ve been there, too. We are here to educate and guide you. We’re here to celebrate your wins and support you during the hard times. We’re fully committed to helping you on your skin journey. Are you ready to get started? Click here to book your New Client Consultation + Treatment.

Some of my favorite products for Acne:

• SIV Biome Balancing Serum
• Face Reality HydraRemedy Gel Serum
• Face Reality 5% L-Mandelic Serum
• Lira C4 Retinol Serum
• Glymed Comfort Cream

To shop my favorites and others, click here.